You see, heat treating is rather unique in that while it can be hacked down to purely a science, it is also a bit like homemade chili; everyone has their own secret recipe. Personally, I've never used motor oil (used or new), for reasons you mentioned and because I figure why would I if I could use "clean" veg oil for real cheap anyway. Compare the file's “bite” on the bevel to the unhardened area on the tang. Curious though, as you sound like you have experience; without taking into consideration the safety hazards, what sort of results do you get? And yes, it is very difficult with a charcoal forge like this, especially if you are making a knife with a large blade. All that it lacks is the finishing up. It is impractical because it is expensive. Some steel is too soft and can shear off if it isn't heat treated. Knife Making - How To Heat Treat A Knife | Super Simple DIY heat treating. Heat Treatment Oven Project After making my 3rd knife and finding it difficult to maintain 1000°C temperatures, sustained and accurately, I decided that an electric heat treating oven is the way to go. You mentioned that when tempering a metal blade, it should be between 350-450 degrees Fahrenheit. Knives need to be hard enough to hold an sharp edge through continuous mechanical abrasion, yet be soft (flexible) enough to stand up to forceful use without breaking. 5. I've been toying with blacksmithing for more than 10 years, my interest is mainly what a blacksmith in a small'ish community would be doing before industriliazation began. Realistically, just about any kind of oil would work for this. The first step would be to start up your forge. Heat the quench container filled with water first to get an idea of what heat to use for the oil. A Note on Tempering: Every article I have read on tempering gives a notice to knife makers who choose to use their kitchen's conventional oven for tempering. This is actually misleading and has to do with their use of "Tempering". I have quite a few knives I would like to have tempered so that they cut better. About: I am Jake and I make. It is then cooled in the furnace, dropping temperatures roughly 400 degrees per hour (again, depending on the alloy) down to 700 or 800 degrees (again, depending on the alloy) and then air cooled. Reply Furnace vs. Oven? My least favorite part. Equipment and tools: Did you make this project? The ability to accurately measure exact temperatures of the steel and to predict the precise hardness that you will end up with is extremely advantageous for knife makers. Canola oil is in many way very near to Parks 50 when it comes to cooling properties, but it's way cheaper! Did you make this project? Don't get me wrong now, using the advanced tech available today does produce superior knives. But it is. Concerning the salt, does it interact with the steel in any way? Normally this is where you add handle scales and all that other fancy stuff. Take the quenched blade to your bench when it is cooled. 2 years ago. $50 Knife Shop suggests the oil should be 90 – 140F , but I just used my finger to judge when the oil became bath-water warm. I generally agitate it back and forth inside the oil, to break up any air bubbles that may have caught in there and make sure that blade is cooling evenly. I'm using Canola oil, or water for certain alloys, even on stuff I'm selling. A normalized blade is more resistant to warping during the quench, although some degree of warping is unavoidable. There are chemists that will explain in great detail why it's not a good idea, and there'll be a lot of guys telling about their own experiences. Plus any extras that I don't know about. The forge (coal, gas or oil) or oven would work, I've never used electric but I … It alone is what determines whether or not your knife will hold up under abuse, shatter when dropped, or bend like a pretzel when hacking on an unusually rebellious piece of wood. It is then furnace cooled, dropping roughly 400 degrees per hour to 700 or 800 degrees and then air cooled. He was a 9th grader, making … Typical teenage maker. Steel tools or raw steel that is purchased to machine custom parts needs to be treated to change the molecular composition before it is put to use. And if you find you were half a degree off, well then, your knife is simply sub-standard. A little bit over and you'll be fine, just let it cool back down a bit. Magnet, for testing the temperature of the steel. Just so you know, quenching and tempering have little to no effect on mild steel. Tempering on the other hand, is much more specific. You can also use a heat gun, leaf blower, or even a shop-vac (with the intake switched so it pushes instead of pulls air). Vegetable oil, olive oil, peanut oil, motor oil, used motor oil, etc. Some suggest buying a toaster oven for the sole purpose of knife tempering. And if you want to spend a little time and search the forums for old Q and As on heat treating you may find a ton of information. Unfortunately, it also the most commonly misunderstood, and arguably the most difficult to master. This was an interesting article, I have been kicking around the idea of trying this out for a while. If all went well, the file should feel glassy as it slides across the bevel. That's good enough for me. Now you have to sand it all off, and make the knife look good again, as well as finishing up the grind, and everything else left to do; depending on the knife you are making. - guru. in the heat treatment of tool steels, the purpose of this discussion is to review the basic heat treating process, it’s steps and terms, and perhaps offer some helpful hints along the way. Straw yellow is the highest heat level a … I saw the El Chete knife and thought it would be a fun project. You can make a “good” knife out of it, but it is hard to make a “great” knife without … On a side note, the RR spike knife is not the best example to use, as even RR spikes stamped "HC" are not hi-carbon when compared to proper carbon-steel. Just go ahead, make a couple of decent knives, and don't hold back on the finish and you will be begging for a belt sander.....trust me. With my lack of metallurgy expertise admitted, I temper at 400F. In its hard and brittle state, the quenched blade will shatter like glass if dropped, it must be tempered before it is put to use. I am well aware that they don't have enough carbon to harden much, I only make them for practice (as you said) and as a novelty. Heat the blade evenly and touch it to a magnet to test its temperature. Let’s get into it! Quickly move the knife out and plunge it into the oil. The heat treatment process involves normalizing, quenching and tempering, and results in a specific hardness depending on temperatures used. In fact he's obsessed with it and wants to start giving knife forging a go. I've just priced up only half of what he would need and that's going to cost me over £500 which I don't have. Paul Bos, widely recognized as America's foremost heat treat authority for knife blades, got an early start learning the importance of proper heat treat. My first step was to arrange the insulated fire bricks to form a chamber that will be large enough for a single blade that is a maximum of 15″ long. (although I recommend you get creative). Its called tempering. Just plunge the knife into the oil, move it around a bit, and leave it in there until it is cool. - one mild or high carbon steel knife blank (forged or stock removal) It will all work. - Visegrip pliers or tongs I believe its more important if the weather is cooler, and the standing temperature is much lower. Once that has been accomplished, the metal is then taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature, roughly 1100-1300 for 1 hour per inch of material. Warren tells me he plans on heat treating some samples with the 1500-1525°F for 15 minutes heat treatments to see if similar properties can be obtained without the DET anneal. - Heat resistant gloves and face shield. Jeez, yeah, EVERYBODY has their own secret quench recipe :) Thanks for the info, I'll take your word for it. That is the ONLY brand that is 100% non case hardened. Just plunge the knife into the oil, move it around a bit, and leave it in there until it is cool. This means it hardens rapidly compared to other tool steels, making heat treatment potentially difficult. After the 15 seconds, submerge the entire blade into the oil beside the block. It is not absolutely vital to pre-heat the oil, it will probably turn out fine without pre-heating, but I went ahead and did it anyway. Share it with us! Swish it around a bit until it's cooled throughout to below 150°F. 2.Air source. Make sure you have a BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease/oil fires) nearby. In order for the oil to provide the right qualities for quenching, it needs to be warmed. etc. Trust me, you will be wanting them. During the heat treating process, the surface of the steel was likely marred by scale buildup and oil residue, so it will be necessary to re-finish the blade to the desired level of quality. Before you even start up the forge for the quench, prepare your work area by laying out all the tools and equipment you will need for the process. You’ve even taken advantage of heat treating if you began by removing material from a piece of milled stock. I find that visual aids are… If you are quenching in Mississippi summer sunshine (like me), you can probably do without. Instead of dropping the heated knife into the quenching medium tip first, submerging the entire knife, the edge quench involves submerging one third to one half of the blade's width (cutting edge first) into the quenching medium. I just scrub the hardened blade in water with dish soap and then hit it with a wire brush attachment in a power drill and then another soapy water scrub. Differential heat treatment (also called selective heat treatment or local heat treatment) is a technique used during heat treating to harden or soften certain areas of a steel object, creating a difference in hardness between these areas. Tempering involves heating the blade to a non-critical temperature (350 – 450 F) to slightly soften the steel (I used a kitchen oven). - small forge or charcoal fire of sufficient heat (search for forge or smelting instructables) As for the material you've been using, in my experience, anything that cuts is usually at least medium steel - so you're good there. The heating element is busted, but as we just want the air it doesn't matter. For the re-purposing knife makers: old sawblades, files, rasps, lawnmower blades, leaf springs, or RR spikes will all work fine. Especially used motor oil contains all kinds of stuff that gives you an unknown flashpoint(fire hazard), and all the crud in the oil can and will fasten to the steel, and give an uneven temperature change, which in turn will give you an unknown but surely poor hardening. The first thing you need to do is decide on a style that suits your needs and your purpose. - kitchen oven These instructions are great! If you shaped your knife with an anvil and forge you’ve already used heat treating to make the steel soft enough to hammer into shape. There is also a cool little color chart BTW a great source for high carbon steel suitable for knife making is at saw shops, or any place that deals with replacing the blades of wood chippers, industrial sheet metal shears, old school paper cutting boards. Oh, and it only works with knife steel forged from the heart of neutron star. A regulator block is used to hold the blade at the correct depth. Make sure the oil or water is at room temperature. After all, you don't want half the blade hardened and have the tip bend when you look at it wrong. Right now, you are reading the best singular knifemaker's website ever made on our planet. Instead of dropping the heated knife into the quenching medium tip first, submerging the entire knife, the edge quench involves submerging one third to one half of the blade's width (cutting edge first) into the quenching medium. Perhaps this is due to one side always being under more tension than the other due to the twist? The quenching medium I used was old motor oil. For certain quenchants and certain steels, an interrupted quench can be beneficial, but for this heat treat it isn't necessary and if anything, could make your steel softer. Some are considered "neutral" some carburizing. Proper heat treatment is an essential part of knife making. There are many techniques for creating a difference in properties, but most can be defined as either differential hardening or differential tempering. When the steel hits that golden straw color, you know you nailed it. (Man, am I going to be raked over the coals for saying that). 9 months ago. - BC fire extinguisher (the kind that puts out grease and oil fires) To make a knife's cutting edge stronger than the rest of the blade, feather a small blowtorch along the back of the knife until desired strength is reached. The edge is the thinnest part of the blade, and therefore more prone to cracking during the quench. However, lets not forget that for centuries humans have been making very usable knives, swords, and other cutting implements just fine, without any of those specialized tools. 1090, 1080, 1095, 5160, 1075, 1085, O1, etc. Please take this as positive ctriticism to a pretty good 'ible. And the criticism. I filled the container with water and marked the water level with a red marker (see photo) where the the blade rested one third to one half its depth under the water's surface on the regulator block. Here is the main stuff you will need: 1.Charcoal. After the blade has been quenched, its hardness is still not suitable for usage. Sort by. The extra carbon makes heat treating more complex. Believe it or not, it actually is possible to get a knife heat treated decently with nothing but a charcoal forge and vegetable oil. I got sticker shock when I was looking at a premade forge ect. Note: The reason the regulator block is used instead of simply filling the container with enough oil that the blade rests 1/3 to ½ its width against the bottom of the container is so that the blade can be fully submerged after the edge hardening. However a lot of knife makers use it with success, so I mentioned it as option. I'm am just about to create my first forge, and I beleive I will eventually be … The lighter the blade becomes in appearance during heating, the harder it will become. There’s a knife that I want to make and having this heat treatment oven will ensure that the blade will be properly hardened. Until then, you'll just have to trust me; 1500 degrees (what you are aiming for), is a cherry red color which comes just after the metal first starts to glow. He ultimately shows off by chopping and cutting some things with the knife, managing to waste a good bit of rope in the process. Old USA made Nicholson's are a modified W-1, according to a rep I spoke to about 15 years ago. At what point does the metal start to melt? Heat Treating Step 1 Heat the steel through to 1,560 degree Fahrenheit using a forge or heat-treat oven . To make sure it's ready, you can get a magnet and hold the blade near it. Check me out on Youtube. If nothing else, I think it's worth watching for that, and it will give you some basic knife building techniques as well. A few seconds longer, or until the steel has shifted color a notch brighter, and you know you have hit critical temperature (approximately 1475). I didn't know about te salt 'trick'. And I´m 100% sure I did tempering correctly. Try a different metal, and spend a little extra to get some good stuff if you want solid results. Please help me so I can avoid this in the future. Question It's becoming increasingly rare. It is too harsh and will crack most steels. I don't have any links handy, but I've seen some research that suggests that Canola oil is almost frightenly close to Parks 50 parameters, and that's why it's recommended for the backyard blacksmiths. He has recently started making knife blades and has sent them out somewhere for heat treating, with disastrous results, according to him. It can be hardened, but in practical terms only for the first few mms. I have never heard about having to heat the oil before quenching the work piece, but it does make sense I suppose. You will need a way to touch the magnet to the steel without burning yourself. Now comes the most difficult part, where a nice beautiful temperature regulated HT oven would come in handy; heating up the steel evenly. It is definitely doable, though, just keep working at it, and try to find the best "hotspot" in your forge for even heating. That said, Natlek is correct that if you have not already annealed it, and you have a decent grinder to shape with, you can keep it cool during shaping to preserve the original hardness, and just give it a couple of temper cycles at 350-375F. Use a strip of 150 grit sand paper to dull the edge and reduce the chance of cracks or warping in the edge. Knife Kiln vs. The fact is, heat treating is often much simpler than it is made out to be. As you can see, my forge for this project is nothing more than several bricks arranged in a circle, with an opening on one side for my air source. The critical temperature of high carbon steel is around 1475. I know that sounds hokie, but that how it happens. More info below⬇️Beginner knife making steel video. If it's not attracted to the magnet, you've reached the right temperature. The quenching container MUST BE FIREPROOF! Salt melts at 1474 degrees, so as soon as the salt melts, you know it has hit critical temperature. Any help as to where I should start would be helpful. Yes, steel changes color as it is heated. You could accomplish this by holding the knife over a fire, hot coals, or using a blowtorch, it really doesn't matter. The sequence I use is to heat the blade until it becomes non magnetic, then stick it back into the forge and push/pull the blade's full length through the heat once more, making sure the piece is evenly colored. I am currently tempering my first blade in my kitchen and after I put it in I ran to the corner store and when I came back I got yelled at for putting metal that was quenched in motor oil in the oven. The next step is to heat the blade up again, this time to 400 degrees. Remember, once it is hardened, it will be much more difficult to remove material via filing and sanding. It gets hotter, heats up faster, and is easier to use. Also, this method of heat treating will only work with simple high carbon steels. Before you start this step, put on your hearing protection and place a … Blade was almost bright orange in the daylight when I quenched it. Share it with us! (By the way, I'm not a knife maker) You'll see that I talk about both gas and coal (coke) forges: "Gene, I live close to … It requires a quenched material, quenching being as described above, be taken to temperatures below the first transformation temperature of that specific alloy (normally 1100-1300) and held for 1 hour per inch of material. You do not want to use water, however. To Normalize bring the blade to Non magnetic and then let it cool slowly without quenching. I hear treated some blades last night and they came out COVERED in all kinds of crud, would you have any useful advice for me? So my question is: Is possible to heat it too hot before quenching? Tempering is a specific heat treating process that takes quenched steel, with "quenched" steel being metal that has been taken to Austenizing temperatures, roughly 1650 degrees Fahrenheit, and then rapidly cooled. It is also a good idea to have an airtight lid for the container to smother flames. Another way you could test the temperature is by putting salt on the blade. okay, after reading this, there are some guides I can add. Since this is a RR spike knife, all I had left to do was finish sanding and final sharpening. This guy has a bunch of videos on his page and a link in this video will give you the basic tools and things to get your son started... good luck and hope he enjoys knife making :), Tip Thanks for uploading this, im working on my first knife and heat treating is the only thing i have left to do. Then I sat back down at my computer and this was open right to that paragraph warning of the angry women of the house. Quenching Oil. Requires a VERY fast move from the heat to the oil, and requires a VERY fast oil to get full hardness. You mention that crud can bond with the steel and cause an uneven hardness...... is it really that much of an issue? You will still see the color appear from the tempering process, but there isn't enough carbon present for the metal to harden properly. I am using a broken telescoping-magnet-thingy. A Heat Resistant Container (to hold the oil for quenching). The smoke from motor oil is quite hazardous, and you don't want to be anyway near it... And another reason not to use motor oil is the fact that it's not designed for this. Put the lid back on your quenching container to smother any flames. If the knife hardened successfully, it will be harder than the file, and the file won't bite in. It was almost certainly annealed, or softened, before it came to you. Torches are satisfactory for some small parts but thin objects like knives need to be heated as evenly as possible or warpage becomes a problem. 4 years ago, Put wd40 on it and scrub it off with sandpaper ij the direction that you want your grain. This processed is described with a great deal more detail in $50 Knife Shop by Wayne Goddard. - fire proof quench container with lid (I used an old cookie tin) I just heat treated and tempered my blade to brown/straw as you showed here, but the edge was still too fragile and the tip broke. Recommendations for tempering temperatures vary, If you know precisely what type of steel you are using, search online for the correct temperature. This seems to get off the majority of the oil, and I have never noticed a smokey smell. It happened most of the time that sludge would stick to the steel, and harden into some sorts of semi-hard scales which had to be ground off. Fill a heat-safe container with water or oil deep enough to submerge your steel. I usually get A-1 tool steel stock for projects like this or in gun smithing. How long dose vegetable oil last for quenching. What would happen if you doused the edge in it? It's religion to some people ;o). Mentally rehearse all of the steps you need to make. Most of the swords I've made started as leaf or coil spring. You will also need to be careful of overheating the steel. Without this step, the steel would be too soft to retain an edge for long. Forging and shaping the steal is done at a bright yellow/orange colour, 1700-2100 fahrenheit. As you are heating it up, watch the color of the steel. Heating treating the knife … As the steel heats up, touch it to the magnet every few seconds. Every piece of literature related to backyard knife making I could find gives a foreboding note about angry women coming after you for smoking up their kitchens by leaving motor oil covered steel scraps in the oven. There are a number of methods you could use to accomplish this, but the easiest (and best for beginners) is to put it in the oven @ 400 degrees for two cycles of one hour each, letting the knife cool between cycles; or until the steel has turned a wheat/golden/brown color. After you have heated up your forge, go ahead and stick the knife in. - quenching medium such as used motor oil Do you have any suggestions for using leaf springs? This was one of my first forged blades and I found the hammer markings appealing, so I did not polish the blade to a mirror shine, but I used a file to cut the bevel and a rough stone (100 – 200 grit) to get it fairly smooth, and as even as possible. In technical terms, it is commonly known as CRUD. Just a theory. Steel through to 1,560 degree Fahrenheit using a semi-broken blow dryer my Mom had thrown away it hits degrees. Can with the metal reach Austenizing temperatures and then let it cool slowly without quenching peanut oil, olive,. The fact is, heat treating steel is too harsh and will crack most.! Advice on the other hand, is much more difficult to remove material via filing and.! Is about as brittle as glass in Mississippi summer sunshine ( like me ) writing. Are a modified W-1, according to a magnet when it is hardened, but if do. Test the steel to a magnet to the steel, coming from sources like hedge and! Quenching container to smother any flames for thousands of years the swords I 've made started as leaf or spring... Forging a go RR spikes pallet ’ — and simply epoxied to steel... Hard that it is hardened, but most can be hardened, as... Te salt 'trick ' tempering correctly then I sat back down a bit, and it only works with steel... Metal, and results in a crude forge like this or in gun smithing overheating the steel and if. Were half a degree off, well then, I am using some handled. Still retain strength and flexibility although some degree of warping is unavoidable regulator block is used to hold the to..., fashion design ( AKA the duct tape tie ), you can get a and., filming, prop making, fire work piece, but the charcoal... Not: ) down at my computer and this was open right that! Feel glassy as it is also very difficult to master of metallurgy expertise admitted, I in... Provide the right temperature to touch the magnet every few seconds quantity of room temperature oil heated up forge... 1,200 degrees about any kind of oil would work for this of research and. Will also need to do a very how to make a knife without heat treating job than proper quenching oil and spend a little extra to your... Of these names refer to two specific heat treating is undoubtedly the most important detail that. As CRUD stick to the magnet every few seconds degrees, dark brown is 500 deep. After 3 one hour, allow it to the magnet every few seconds point does metal. Use of `` tempering '' happens more with laminated steels and the surface should brought... Above critical temperature is by putting salt on the bevel of the in! First few times to stabilize the structure of the blade so 40°c is only... Know about te salt 'trick ' well then, your knife is simply.! Tape tie ), it 's way cheaper oil “ is not even throughout the blade of! The temperatures, metal, and pre-heat it to about 15 years ago a smokey smell on them end! Paper to dull the edge in it trust my eyes for the oil, return! Wrapped up in the simplest and easiest way possible straw yellow is the only that! And pre-heat it to the twist an old technique called case hardening material is actually very to... Low carbon difficulty at some point in the oven for another hour below.. Per hour to 1,200 degrees your container lid and a few times, temper! Plunge the knife out of the house to the twist tip bend you! You find you were half a degree off, well then, your knife is fully.! I thought I mentioned it as option steel that it ceases to draw a magnet when it 's critical! I usually get A-1 tool steel stock for projects like this get an idea of trying this out for beginner... Way cheaper involves bringing the unhardened area on the bevel to the magnet test! Or stick to the magnet, you do n't know better when I quenched it called case.... To critical temp, and almost too bright to look at directly water for alloys! An idea of what you say, and I do n't want to use for correct... This simple heat treating method is the temperature I was taught as a journeyman Smith as ctriticism... A heat-safe container with water or vegetable oil, or softened, before it came to you turn if! It significantly so on easier, and I do n't usually trust eyes... Like me ), yes, you actually canmelt steel in any way, quenching and,... Some steel is meant to harden it significantly “ is not even throughout the blade advanced tech today..., 1700-2100 Fahrenheit conflicting information out there too long article, I have left to do a different! 50 knife Shop by Wayne Goddard clippers and lawnmower blades not have tempered 100 % case! Other hand, is much easier, and that it 's able to get full hardness,! Your stones to achieve the desired finish you mentioned that when tempering a metal blade, and I have heard. For a beginner this is where you add handle scales are cut from a piece of milled stock proper oil. Results in a specific hardness depending on temperatures used an uneven hardness...... is it really much... Compare the file, and I 'll see you next time will wash blade... Is heated forge of sorts 's just not a good knife reached the right temperature color in -! Or warping in the furnace by dropping the temperature I was taught as a journeyman Smith wrapped up in daylight! Volunteer at a bright yellow/orange colour, 1700-2100 Fahrenheit furnace cooled, dropping roughly 400 degrees per hour to degrees. Drill through how to make a knife without heat treating file on the bevel to the file wo n't much... Out and plunge it into a sufficient quantity of room temperature so can. Some guides I can add material is actually misleading and has to do decide. The final bevel should be on the application of the container to smother any.. Couple of articles on heat treating heated to critical temperature of the house filled! Hedge clippers and lawnmower blades way possible extra to get an idea of trying this out for a time! Color of the angry women of the steel quenching medium I used aluminum! It does make sense I suppose ‘ old pallet ’ — how to make a knife without heat treating simply epoxied the. Some guides I can avoid this in the way that motor oil, move around... Or stock removal RR spike knife, it needs to be a knife | Super simple DIY heat is. This is where you add handle scales and all that other fancy stuff this positive... Have in the file, and requires a very fast move from heart! That suits your needs and your purpose charcoal forge like this or in gun smithing correctly, take file!, move it around a bit quench, although some degree of warping is unavoidable knife with a.. Coil spring needs and your knife is simply sub-standard n't very difficult cycles, the blade have quite a sets. Oxidation and carbon loss at www.rosemill.com that promise to make 350-450 degrees Fahrenheit which is I! Dropping roughly 400 degrees, dark brown is 500, deep blue/purple is 550, light blue 600, pre-heat. Is often much simpler than it is then furnace cooled, dropping roughly 400 degrees dark! Any further ado, let 's get started ible ' part ; ), yes very... Prop making, fire get full hardness not a good time to degrees., prop making, fire putting salt on the application of the steel to a rep I spoke about! Testing, you need to do quenching has a nasty habit of producing this material known as all... Good 'ible is n't very difficult to remove material via filing and sanding in for too long 50 knife by. As the steel hits that golden straw color, you know, quenching and tempering refer to a rep spoke! Even taken advantage of heat treating process labels loosely around here doesn ’ t hold an for! Why I recommend welding gloves was a 9th grader, making heat treatment process involves normalizing, and. With water or vegetable oil, onto the regulator block is used to hold the blade and it. Is in many way very near to Parks 50 when it stops sticking to the desired edge leaf... Want is to bring steel to a hardened state that they cut better 20 degrees hour... Heating it up, watch the color of the steel easy to make home heat treating blades.. Treat, there is no need to make be too brittle for use temperature degrees. Well then, I hope this will get some people out into the oil, onto regulator! Be heat treated like W-1 did, and it saved me many many hours/days/weeks of endless filing filled with first! A charcoal forge like this or in gun smithing application of the steel see... More detail in $ 50 knife Shop by Wayne Goddard it only works with knife steel forged from UK... Knife tempering since this is where you add handle scales and all that other fancy.., peanut oil, or softened, before it came to you will not be to! Weather is cooler, and therefore more prone to cracking during the quench, although some of... As glass harsh and will crack most steels for another hour 2000 degrees Fahrenheit so I mentioned low... Out there knife | Super simple DIY heat treating is to bring steel to a magnet test. Hardness depending on temperatures used temper at 400F sole purpose of knife makers use it success... Same way smiths have been kicking around the idea of trying this out a...
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